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Old Grape New Wine

 

Posted by Magandeep Singh on May 04, 2009 in: Wine TastingItalian Wine

The thing with wine is that it has a capacity to bestow humility.  I am not talking about drunken antics which make it to all our friends' wall of shame. I am talking about the sheer length and breadth of knowledge that this field accommodates.  A lifetime is too short to learn of your ignorance in the field of wines.

I thought myself to be quite a maverick for already knowing about Nero d'Avola - this relatively unknown grape that comes from the South of Italy. A few more Italian tastings later, I was enlightened about a whole bunch of new grapes which, until then, I wouldn't have known if they slapped me in the face!

Fiano de Avellino: A grape from Campania, Italy, it has quite some history (Pliny the Elder called it "Apian", as it was sweet like nectar and attracted the bees.) Right from the Middle Ages the grape was fairly popular in the royal circuits. The wines are a luscious off-white in colour, dry in nature and with a fine hazelnut edge.

Nero di Troia: The reds from this grape are not as heavily aromatic when the wine is young but with time it develops (although it still isn't very strong). What is definitely impressive is the range of flavours on the palate: from spice to rich, ripened fruits. The tannins are well formed and blocky, but add to the enjoyment of the resulting full-bodied wine.

Cataratto: White grape from the Sicilian island, the wines are fruit-filled (think of white fruits like peaches) with a certain tangy edge. I just like the name: it plays on your tongue like a roller-coaster ride, doesn't it?

Greco di Tufo: The very name suggests Greek connections. Planted in Campania around the Tufo village mostly, the grape yields simple, elegant whites (which doesn't mean much really unless you get around to tasting it yourself!)

Aglianico: Like another survivor in the land of Mount Vesuvius, Pompeii, this red grape yields amongst the richest and fruitiest of reds which benefits greatly from oak ageing. A lot of replanting has been put into effect to resuscitate this grape from near extinction.

Vermentino: Not exactly as "new" as some of the others. But it is supposed to have a bay-leaf note (I've never found it) which would make it a good match with Indian and other Asian cuisines. So do try if you get the chance.

Primitivo: Zinfandel to the US-influenced thinkers, this was the original from Italy. But let me not snatch away credit from the Americans who did do quite a bit to make this grape popular and, more importantly, to harness the wine style of this tough-to-master grape. The Indian wine industry too flirts a lot with Zinfandel but with the alacrity and panache of road-kill.

Negroamaro: As the very name suggests, the deep-hued red wines have a characteristic slightly bitter after-taste. Not too heavy really as one would expect from something that is called the big black bitter one (was there a porn flick named such!?), the wines are good fruity stuff and pretty pleasant on the whole.

I have a whole list of other grapes from other parts of the world but I prefer to impress in stages. Till then, enjoy these.

 

Just,

 

Magan



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