Whenever I get flak for my columns, it is mostly directed to my choice of titles, which are generally quite unimaginative, and cheesy. Apparently my titles make wine even more boring, something that was considered impossible even by the most cynical of critics!

But I have several reasons behind the title of this piece. Two reasons actually. Here’s the first one.

New Zealand has done what no other country could do: displace the myth that only France can make Sauvignon Blanc. Now don’t get me wrong here. France does NOT solely supply S.B. for the world palate and nor does New Zealand alone rival them in terms of quality. I think North Eastern Italy and Austria are equal contenders. But the Kiwi version was able to garner enough attention and turn a few worthy heads at the right time and very soon it was the new flavour.

For one, it was starkly different. The Kiwi style confirmed the lack of fruit in the French versions (even the prized ones from the areas of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé), which they compensated for. New Zealand versions were fruity enough to fill an orchard, with vivacious acidity that could instantaneously turn blue litmus red! The wines were aggressive and taunting, but mostly they were eye-catching, or more correctly, palate-grabbing!

Think of it as in the art world; one form of art exists and then another more forward interpretation comes along and if it can find enough nods, it becomes the new established style. In the manner that Dadaism soon gave way to Surrealism, France was giving way to New Zealand. And the fact that they are boutique in size (NZ’s vineyards total no more than 22,600 hectares which are still smaller than Champagne’s 32,000ha, and that’s only 3% of France’s vineyards!) makes them ever more precious a commodity.

New Zealand has a lot else going for it. Three grape (Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) varieties make up about 70% of the cro,p which again becomes a national strength, a kind of dependence and pride that no other country has, or can afford. The proverbial “putting all your eggs in one basket” scare. Sauvignon Blanc accounts for about 34% of their vineyard crop and 72% of their exports. And this can be dangerous for a wine-producing region where 55% of the produce is destined for exports. What if the consumer trend shifts from Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay to another grape like, say, Pinot Grigio? Wait-a-minute, that’s exactly what is happening!

The latitudes that encompass New Zealand's vineyards correspond to those that contain Bordeaux and Rioja in the Northern Hemisphere. Viticulturally speaking, this is the ideal climate zone for growing grapes. So one thing they do manage to have is good Terroir. Not just Sauvignon Blanc, even Chardonnay from here is good. Pinot Noir, their red star is already gaining tremendous popularity and acceptance.

Next, because they are not a very old winemaking industry (50 years, give or take a few) they have not had the same problems as other countries did. They had the advantage of being able to benefit from the information that already existed on the subject. The travel brought the culture and with agricultural income becoming an important national component, winemaking received much impetus.

Being English speaking must have helped because they have managed to create an image and a reputation for regions like (among others) Nelson, Martinborough, Hawke’s Bay, Waipara, Waiheke Island and the iconic Sauvignon Blanc area, Marlborough. Each of these regions has diverse soils and different climatic conditions and they have all adapted grapes to suit the same but if you ask me, I don't think they have such extremely individualised regional styles; the difference is more on account of the winemaker and the vintage. Cool nights are a fairly common Kiwi advantage which makes for crop rich in acidity, something that is essential for white winemaking.

Other grapes like the Riesling, Müller Thurgau, Gewurztraminer, Chenin Blanc and Pinot Blanc too have been planted and with much success, but because of big superstar sister Sauvignon Blanc with her designer sunglasses on, and then the next-in-line heir-to-the-throne Chardonnay in waiting, they don't really get much attention. Sparkling wines too have been made but the whole effort seems to desperately cry out for, please excuse the pun, new zeal!

And now for my second and definitely shorter reason. New Zealand needs to reinvent itself. Somewhere people are beginning to not entirely enjoy their styles of whites and while it may have established them, they will need to search deeper and further before they can find their next great vision. They have to look beyond the cat’s pee and the asparagus and artichoke before they know what will next establish and reinstate their wine repute. And it won’t be just a tiny add-on like oak-ageing the Sauvignon Blanc that will have us fooled for long enough to not realise it. And personally speaking, I recently tasted some Sauvignon Blanc from Austria which held on to the fruitiness and even had the requisite acidity but without the austere dryness or aggressiveness that is so typical of most NZ S.B. in fact, I may be a minority when I say that I like them but wouldn’t exactly kill for them.

Mind you, they have been the pioneers of the screw cap movement and also champion the cause of environment preservation alongside viticulture (SWNZ – Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand programme). But I think they will have to find their dazzle-me-dead proposition (DDP), which for me is more important than a USP. A DDP is much like a USP but with more sustainability and of course, sass!

I do not want to come across as a perpetually dissatisfied person; I am not tryig to stand up against what the world’s most established critics have to say about the wines of New Zealand. I am merely denying myself the current constant goodness so that I may live a little longer in hope. Hoping that the surprise element is still there and that tomorrow when we all wake up, we will have something new and even more amazing to look forward to in our glasses.